I have a 500Cp that seems to make a strange sound when it is running. You know the hissing sound the lantern makes while burning? Well mine seems to go from loud to quiet, or strong to soft while running. Sometimes the light pulses with the sound, but not always. Clearing #50 by turning the nob on and off sometimes helps and sometimes doesn't. It gets better if I pump it all the way up to 3. Is this normal? My stock SeaAnchor lantern doesn't do this so I'd think it wasn't normal, but I'm wondering about other people's experiences?
Thanks

Hello,

Check the #33 make sure its raised up high real high, also it can do this when its low on pressure or fuel, dirt in the fuel can do this. Clean tank out real good.

See this page

Each time before use I've swished out the fuel tank one to three times. I filtered my fuel through a doubled coffee filter. Made sure #33 is stable and #34 and #3 tight. Last night I also cleaned #101 and #191 to a shine. I cleaned #50 with carb cleaner. And spayed #150 though with lots of carb cleaner and scrubbed with doubled pipe cleaners till they came out clean. I've cahnged #50 and #68. The sound is worse with kero that has biodiesel mixed in, but before running last night I had cleaned out the tank with fresh kero and run it on kero after cleaning all these parts. The only way to get the sound to subside is pump up to or past 3. But what if I don't want the light that bright? And pumping it up that far doesn't totally do away with the pulsing sound and light 100%. The thing is, it started this on the first tank of fuel I ever ran through it and hasn't stopped since no matter how much I clean this or that. Is it possible I need to lower #33? Or replace something?

Hi,

The pressure gauge part #149 can be a little lose on the adjustment and 3 may be 1 ½ not 3 let pressure off to the 2 or red mark if the sound is low, then the gauge needs to be adjusted some, this is in the DVD adjustment of gauge.

Also our lanterns go down real low on pressure, But some fuels like heavy oil fuels will pulse do to the vaporizing at low temp, and if its cold out …..in the summer you would not have this with heavy fuels, and after running the lamp on 2 - 4 fill ups.

High quality products sometimes needs some adjustment, but most of the time just break in our lantern and the pulse will work its way out. This is 95% of the time.

You can send the lantern in to us for adjustment of the hole lantern at no charge (from top to bottom we have the tools to do this).

Some times 1 in 5000 needs this, there’s more to our lanterns then other lanterns on the market today.

Send it in with out fuel and no glass in it( box it good).

Frank
BriteLyt

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BriteLyt,

I might wind up sending it in. I thought about the gauge possibly being off last night and so decided to pump much less. I was still getting the sound with #33 raised all the way or at the place the tool says to put it. I noticed I get a really good light with #33 where the tool suggests and not all the way raised combined with less pressure. Keep in mind I am using kero here. Anyway I noticed last night with the gauge right around 1 or just above the pulsing sound got pretty fast, and in the past this is what it has done just before the pulsing sound has gone away, but alas the sound didn't go away. Well I was reading the instructions that came with my SeaAnchor lantern, and they mention turning the nob left and right to adjust the light. So I did this with my Britelyt, and at first there seemed no change. Then I noticed if I slowly turn the nob to point that you can hear the fuel is cut off and mantle starts to dim, then turn it just barely towards 6 o'clock so that it feeds BUT NO FURTHER the sound goes away, lantern runs quieter, and light does not pulse, flicker, or do anything other than burn producing a very consistant light output! Makes me wonder . . .

Hello,

Sea Anchor lanterns are not the same, do not use instructions with BriteLyt lanterns could cause a problem.


A lot of company’s over seas copied our instructions from our old and new pages, to give the impression there lanterns are the same.

Turning the knob a little off 6 O’clock will do this and sometimes even to 2, 3, 4, 5 O’clock, but when oil fuels cool down and will this will cause the mantle to blacken up from red flame Cause problems.

Gas fuels some and Alcohol fuels can be turned down by the knob easier do to vaporization heat is less.
See this page
Raising the tube and finding a set place can change from out cold air or warm air and the place your at, here in Florida raising it up all most all the why gives out more light then at the tool height, (can change from place to place).

Eddie
BriteLyt
Thank you
And
God Bless!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BriteLyt,

I tried last night to run on Alcohol. Lowered #33 as far as it would go, but couldn't get it started. Oh well! Guess I'll just wait for the parts I ordered from you to come in. So from what your saying unleaded gas is less likely to cause this phenom. Well I'll give it a try. The main reason I didn't use anything but kero till now was to make sure I understood and could easily use the lantern with the fuel this design (Petromax) was originally made for. I thought--possibly erroniously--that kero would be the easiest to start and use. Ease of use is the most important thing to me because it dictates who--if anyone--I will want to introduce this product too. On another note I don't understand why you want to play down the similarities between your lantern and it's copies/predisessors. You haven't--that I can tell--removed any of the basic parts of the lantern thereby replacing them with modified parts, except on the Methanol Britelyt, have you? It appears that you have created parts which can be added for creater saftey and/or functionality. So it would seem that the nob is going to do the same thing on either lantern, opening and closing the petcock while raising and lowering the needle that helps keep #50 clean. If not can you explain how the functionality of the nob is different. If you don't like comparing it to a cheap/knock-off SeaAnchor then could you please explain the difference compaired to an other Petromax, Hipolito, or Aida?

1. When operating unleaded gas/Coleman Fuel/kerosene, etc……..Leave the tube up. Do not lower the tube, as you would, when using alcohol.

2. NOTE: BriteLyt is not “Petromax”. It’s a step up. Actually the Coleman fuel, is the easiest to use, when learning the lantern operation. You won’t have to preheat as long, as you would when using kerosene.

You will have to preheat the lantern, when using Coleman fuel……..just not as long.
Preheating is required for all fuels.

3. Wrong…………..We do not use the same materials, as some of the copies…….and, yes, we do have different parts, manufactured to our specifications.
An untrained eye would not know this.

4. Knob system: Similar, but different. Sorry……Trade Secret. BriteLyt is a research & development corporation. We just make them better.

5. Comparison: BriteLyt is a step up, from the brands you named. American Engineering/American designed/Higher quality materials.

Some of our parts are still being manufactured by the same Mom/Pop shops, as Aida, Hipolito, & now BriteLyt.

The Aida is no longer manufactured, nor is the Hipolito.

Sea Anchor, Egret, & other copies (such as the Wenzel) have not quite learned the proper technique of manufacture for these products; thereby, putting the consumer at risk. Without the technical background and expertise, you won’t receive the proper unit.

Also……Guess who they refer their clients to, should the unit need repair? So……Most of the “copies”, such as some of the SeaAnchor lanterns, are made of steel, and different parts specifications.

Some of the “copies” are made of poor materials , such as steel, (generally cost approx. $15.00 to $16.00USD for manufacture), and have proven to either be a hazard, or totally non-functional. The workmanship is just not there…………so……looks can be deceiving.

It’s like having an automobile manufactured of the proper materials, design, & safety equipment, and then having another automobile factory copy their design, with poor materials, no safety equipment, and the improper engine/body design. The copy may look good, and the seller may promise that it will operate the same as the properly manufactured vehicle…….but…….in the long run, which would you trust?

They may both drive, but the “copy” will not last, and really isn’t safe to drive.

BriteLyt, Inc. has received so many samples of these “copies” of lanterns & stoves; however, none have survived our rigorous testing & safety requirements.

BriteLyt, Inc. is not in the business to just sell product.

We’re, basically, flattered by the fact that most of these “copy-companies”, as we refer to them, are trying to keep up.

Point: Petromax Kerosene Lanterns (and other brands), are not exact copies of the BriteLyt Multi-Fuel Lantern, and should not be operated in the same manner as a BriteLyt lantern.

Diana
BriteLyt
Thank you
and
God Bless!!

quote:

Originally posted by BriteLyt:
<SNIP>

But some fuels like heavy oil fuels will pulse do to the vaporizing at low temp, and if its cold out …..in the summer you would not have this with heavy fuels, and after running the lamp on 2 - 4 fill ups.

High quality products sometimes needs some adjustment, but most of the time just break in our lantern and the pulse will work its way out. This is 95% of the time.

Frank
BriteLyt

Thank you! This helps ME a lot. I was going to ask a similar question. I have a brand-new 500CP and am (almost) as proud of it as a new father.

I have been using it as part of my "decompression" after work when I go outside and sit and read for a while. It was 29 degrees and gusting a little past 30 MPH. The lamp stayed lit extremely well, but I noticed that the output was varying a bit, but didn't seem to be tied directly to the gusts. I'm burning cheap grade kerosene right now.

I have another question but rather than take this thread off topic, I'll start a new thread.

Thanks again.

My lantern pulsed when it was new. As I've used it, the pulsing seems to be going away. I've only got a few hours burn time on mine, and the pulsing only shows up occasionally now.

I did give the tank a good scrubbing with kero and a handful of split washers, repeating until the dumped fuel came out clean.

Britelyt seems to know these lanterns inside-out, and if they say they need time to break in, then so be it.

I'm having a ball breaking mine in!!

I let my lamp warm up 5 minutes or so, then if pulsing and the pressure is pumped up to 3 or higher, I slowly turn the knob toward 12 until the lamp suddenly dims, then back toward 6 until its fully bright again. Then I'll move it back toward 12 a tiny bit, and a tiny bit more and the pulsing usually stops.

I second the advice to use Coleman fuel when the lantern is new. Not only because it's easier to use, but it seems to have the right amount of heat for a new lantern. After its broken in, go for the higher energy fuels like kerosene or diesel.

Just to update, with a few more hours of run time, the pulsing has disappeared completely from my lantern. Between cleaning the tank out real good and just running it for a while the burn has smoothed out real nice.

Since adding the EZ-pump my mantle consumption has slowed down considerably. I guess I'm sort of a violent pumper!